Dash Southward

Posted May 29, 2014 at 01:05

Check-in at Umag (May 22) was a breeze, got our phones and internet card reactivated, waited a day to let a weather system pass and took off southward...
Umag...
We first toyed with the idea of visiting a few places of old along Istria - Novi Grad - too close, Porec - too big..., we actually entered Vrsar, but once we saw the small port filled with all kinds of boats and a large marina, we gracefully motored back out - a large bay outside with reasonable protection didn't look attractive enough either.  We sailed by Rovinj and almost anchored in a bay nearby when we read in a new guide that the hotels there often play loud techno music in the night - and it was a Saturday - brrrr...  Then we realized that we'd rather spend these precious few remaining quiet days (as far as boat traffic is concerned) near Hvar and we pressed on motor-sailing...

Unije I., Zverinac I., Murter, Rogoznica, Tiha Luka (on Hvar) - in five pleasant days. Even though the weather was unstable and fresh, bad weather (thunder, showers) avoided us and seas felt relatively calm sailing down-wind, especially anchorages seemed calm again, after last year's experiences in Greece.

Sailing past the lighthouse at Pula...

... the Coronati Islands in the back ...

... Kaprije ...
... going to Hvar ...
All anchorages of Tiha Luka became a concession zone for a private company...  The rip-off is that since they are allowed by the government to charge even for anchoring within their concession zones, they put down only a minimum number of mooring buoys knowing that since it is a very pretty and popular bay with good protection, it will get filled with boats in the summer who will have to be at anchor and they will charge them too without having moved a finger.  Come on, if you have a concession of that size, and are going to charge, then at least fill the space allotted to you with mooring buoys so that boats can be safely packed... do the work!  Shame on whoever was responsible in the 'government' for allowing this state of affairs.

With the prevailing NW/NE-lies Vrboska was a good and low cost option (for Croatia, at 30E/day) to go on the wall for two days of celebrations...  First night we anchored out and went in by dinghy to check out the situtation in terms of prices and bike and car rentals and whether these services were open...  well they were, on-call.  The harbormaster gave us a deal-price of 200kn first when we dinghied in and inquired, since we needed no electricity or water...

At anchor in Vrboska bay

new over old

lots of worn thresholds

The cute ancient (restored) bridges

Next morning when we came in by boat, the price was 240 (by the book, no recollection of the deal, and electricity and water would have been another 100kn if we decided that we wanted it (we didn't)).  He did pick up and give us the mooring lines and a receipt in return for the cash.  Then we went and rented a moped for the day.
- Z -