Back to the Boat - and fixing some old-new C&C yacht problems

Posted July 16, 2013 at 03:23

This year we've had bureaucratic stuff related to Ds mother to deal with in the old country - it took two months and it is still not finished.  So, once the office we were dealing with told us that a key lawyer went off to vacation in Greece, we said: "so will we.  See you in the fall…"   The important thing was that Ds mother was fine and well taken care of.

Back at the boat after a long taxi drive, we found everything as we left it, with lots of yellow dust on deck, some whitish mould marks inside, mostly on wooded surfaces.  Almost like light dust, in large drops, easy to wipe away.  Sails, dinghy, fenders, spinnaker pole back out onto deck, batteries reconnected (a myriad of charging and sensing cables, let's see: in total I have five different charging devices (two shore chargers, two alternators and my own solar charger) - this time I forgot the second alternator charge cable), water system re-connected and tanks refilled allowed us spend the first night in the relative peace of the huge yard among the endless forest of masts…
In the next couple of days "on the hard" we split the days into going over to Preveza for shopping with the marina-boat in the morning and working on boat projects in the afternoons: this time I had to deal with four "thru-hull" issues:  our depth sensor had to be replaced (extracted from the hull and a new one bedded in); the water maker intake thru-hull reassembled with the new handle supplied courtesy of Forespar (they actually sent me four handles of each thru-hull type on our boat, even though I only asked for one new o-ring - it looks like they're expecting other thru-hulls to develop similar handle-drip leaks - we'll see); my sump output redirection project required a new thru hull to be installed - so I drilled yet another hole into the bottom; and as a surprise, the Volvo engine seawater intake shut-off valve, which is supposedly all stainless steel (made in Italy), had its handle not really stainless and the nut holding it in place rusted/broke off…  Fortunately the handle still works and operates the valve (which is stainless) it's just that I have to find it and place it on the handle shaft to operate it…  until I get a replacement valve next winter.

The worst part of the above was fishing 14m of old depth sensor cable out thru the boat (under floors, behind panels, all cable tied to other cables) and at the same time fishing the new cable into its place…  That took a whole day, and I was swearing for most of it (and selling the boat in my mind)...

Filling North-American propane tanks from Greek ones (same drill as in Italy, Croatia,…)
(The final trick is to place the filled tank into a cooler full of cold water - not shown here)

All this, recommissioning the engine, sanding the hull and repainting it with two coats of new antifouling paint, selecting and buying 60m of anchor chain (our old ACCO 5/16" G40 rusted away since 2008, and, of course you can't find chain of that "quality" around here, unless you wait for a month and pay triple price, I had to settle with a heavier, 10mm chain, also made in Italy that they had in stock and fit our windlass….) took around 10 days.   Dora helped a lot by doing the two coats of bottom paint all by herself while I was fiddling with the other issues…  Finally on Saturday the 12th we were back in the water - and no leaks!
 
Note the appropriate protective clothing…

Except I couldn't start the engine…  but it started two days before without problems?  The starting battery seemed dead.  Fortunately the engine started on the house batteries and after having safely docked in the marina, I found corrosion on the starting battery terminals which was easy to fix later…

So, in the water, the fixing continued…   Removed about 20ft of old sump output hose that was going to the transom (similar "fun" job to the cable fishing job above), then used about 6ft of it to the new sump output thru-hull right under the sump pumps in the galley (a 1 foot distance made 6 because of the anti-syphon valve requirement).  It works!  And, most importantly, it finally eliminates another C&C unique customer satisfaction feature that often squirted smelly sump output in your face as you came out of the water on the swim ladder/platform!

More fixing… the transom emergency rudder cover developed its leak again… Every time it rains, or seawater splashes on the transom ledge, because of another famous C&C feature (this one made in U.S.A.), water collects there (in a proper design it would drain away) and finds a way under the cover (after the heat of the sun has weakened the seal over a period of a year or two) and makes a number of salt-mines in various nooks and crannies of the rudder steering arm structures.  And the rest of it goes and trickles through the length of the boat into the bilge rusting away anything in its way.  All because of inattention to a simple deck design detail.

I just did a complete overhaul of the Jabsco toilet - there was so much calcification in the output elbow that it took 20% HCL half an hour to eat it all…  I dread to think of what's in the 1-1/2" output hoses - should buy a barrel of HCL to go.

There's is still deck-work to be done, hopefully we'll be able to sail out into an anchorage in two or three days…  In the mean time we've frequented a small restaurant nearby in the evenings for a bit of summery feeling and relaxation with wine (for D) and Mythos beer for me….
- Z -