Levkas, Meganisi, Ithaca

Posted Oct. 4, 2012 at 12:33

We left Preveza after a couple of days of checking out the deals at the marinas (not very many deals, as there are too many boats) and headed south for a brief tour of the islands of Levkas et. al. to the south.  Geza stayed behind as he needed to get back home soon and also attend to some repairs on Isabell.

The turn-bridge and the Levkas channel (around 4miles) reminded us of some of the US intercoastal waterway (the swampy part in Georgia) and I was a bit worried going through the 3-4m shallower parts with a dead depth-sounder (died early in the season) and the forward-looking sonar often giving false alarms of shallows ahead (weeds?, fish?)...   But the channel was marked well enough with broken sticks and other more formal markers and the middle part was quite safe  (we skipped stopping at the port of Levkas after the turn-broidge due to the huge crowd of boats in the marina and in small channels around - the town itself looked like made-for-boater-tourists too).  Once we were through the channel, we were happy to be in clear waters again after the murky waters of Preveza, so we found the first free beach and anchored...

Line up in the narrow entrance

waiting for the bridge to open to Levkas

In the following days we sampled the islands of Meganisi, passed by the private Skorpion islands of the Onassis family (didn't stop or go too close, even though one can anchor, but not step ashore, so why then?).   Meganisis' long western shore is another cave-bonanza... 
We tied to shore in another beautiful little cove on the south side of Meganisi, but left just before sunset, because we were surprised by the close appearance of a naked man in our cove, walking around, openly flaunting it and silently performing acts inappropriate for this blog...  There was another group of invisible people a bit further away up the hill, that appeared to be cheering for 'our' guy.   Most likely harmless, but...

On the island of Levkas, we found our favourite bay with a car-camp and a separate taverna, that also had some very nice caves and Bahamas-clear water on beach-lets only reachable by dinghy...  We stayed there a couple of days on the way down and back too...  The family-run taverna was good and very reasonably priced, so we had a meal there once almost every day.

Our favourite afternoon swim site...

Since the bad weather at Corfu, we've had an amazing run of beautiful, calm weather.  Although the sun is much lower in the sky, even at the start of October, its rays are so hot once you step outside... like coming from an open oven.   We've had many days of 30+C temps with higher humidity (70-80%) and it felt like July/August in Croatia.

Along the way from Levkas to Ithaca there are two more large private (no trespass) islands that we passed by without stopping...  On Ithaca we visited Frikes, Kioni and a couple of anchorages, ending up at Vathi (Ithaki), the main town of the island.   We wandered around the waterfront and few spruced-up neighbouring streets full with cafes, tavernas, tourist-shops, then more of the same; the archeological museum had been shut, monuments and associated gardens closed, overgrown with weeds, in general, buildings with the appearance of not having been touched for fifty years or so...  One can certainly see the lack of funds everywhere.  Private houses vary, some new, more old ones; most, but not all, nicely cared for (paint), modestly without much renovation.



Frikes pano from the old windmill...

Vathi (Ithaci):

Lacking in drive for further exploration, we figured we've seen enough for this season, and decided to turn back north and start planning our haul-out...

- Z -