Susac Island

Posted July 12, 2012 at 12:10

After resting for a day upon returning to Lastovo, I thought it might be a good time to visit one of the more remote islands to break the monotony of known places...  I've been eyeing Susac Island for some time so it was a natural choice.  It's deep into the Adriatic, away from charter routes and its small anchorages are deep, marginal and fully open to the S and E.   We sailed over from Lastovo 13nm away, in light winds ..

We found two sailboats, one in each of the more conventional anchorage bays on the chart, so we proceeded to look for Z's bay...  This is a rocky place and depths go to over 300ft (100m) very quickly from shore... On the third try, in crystal clear but deep (66ft - 20m) depths we spotted a patch of what looked like sand,  got lucky hitting it with the anchor and finally tied to shore with a long rode...   The island shore is rugged white rocks with low brush vegetation and almost no trees save a few dwarf pines left standing...   Within half on hour of relaxing, we hear 'baaaa', 'baaaa',... accompanied by a sheep-bell - the few seasonal inhabitants (2-3?) living in half-finished small concrete houses keep a couple of herds of sheep roaming free on the island...

The water there is amazingly clear - I could see our anchor from the surface 66ft down, well set into sand.  So we packed up and dinghied to shore for what turned out to be a beautiful walk...  first up to the nearest high point, there we found a (man-made) sheep-highway running across the length of the island towards the lighthouse about a km away as the crow flies...   So, naturally, it was hard to resist the temptation of walking to the lighthouse... First it was, 'let's just get to the point where we can see the other side of the island'...

Dazzle's berth on Susac

let's see what's up there...

hey, we found a high-way...

"baaa"

aha! - the "other side"

"half way..."

then, 'now that we're half way, why don't we walk up to the lighthouse?  It's should be a beautiful view...'   'Ok', agreed finally the one less enthused by walking on a dusty sheep-path in the lingering heat of the setting sun... The scents of rosemary and other wild herbs were just as strong and provided some consolation...



"All the way..."

We found the above symbol carved/printed onto this stone along the road...  anyone knows what it is, or how it got on Susac?...   drop us a note...

As we were walking up to the lighthouse, we noticed a black 20ft (6m) fast powerboat approaching the island with two uniformed crew...  Damn, this island does belong to Lastovo National Park, but is it worth for them to spend all this gas to come here 13nm and back to collect 4 x 50kn (28euros) (four boats in total by now on the island)?   They went from bay to bay (including ours) in/out...  Half an hour later as we were just about to return to Dazzle they showed up outside, and we were resigned to pay - it's not much, and it was worth it anyhow...  and then...  the horizon looking out from our bay got filled by a humungous, 90m (!), black, British-flagged private ship "Phoenix2" (according to AIS), and our "park rangers" (anchoring scouts really) proceeded to their "mother-ship" and disappeared beside it (without collecting any park fees :-).  (Sorry, no pics...but I'm sure you can find that boat on the internet...)   Phoenix2 dropped anchor way outside, lit up the sea and itself for a couple of hours in the night and then disappeared before sunrise while we were sleeping...

The next day, as the weather was nice but unstable, a southeasterly started up that was forecast to last a day...  so we left Susac and sailed back for the southern shores of Korcula...
- Z -